Fashion Photography in New York City by CK

PORTRAITS BEFORE/AFTER

2012-01-18T11:12:00.000-08:00

BEFORE

AFTER

Something I am asked routinely is “why is retouching important”? Many people think of retouching as removing blemishes and imperfections, which is part of it of course…but that’s just the beginning.

So you finally have the perfect dress, perfect makeup, perfect pair of shoes and the perfect accessories. You were able to practice so many possible smiles in front of the mirror and you're almost sure that your photos will look absolutely great. Alas, it wasn't the case. To your horror, you saw that your photo did not highlight your smile and other facial features. Instead, the photo highlighted several flaws. So what do you do now? Thankfully, there are a lot of professional photo retouching services that you can now avail of.

Photo retouching is really heaven sent these days. What more if a professional will do such a service. With a few clicks that only a professional photo retoucher can do, your photo will look absolutely great. Your hair will not look dull, there will be no red eyes and even that pesky little pimple near your nose will be gone in an instant!

Time and Advice to Get New Headshots

2011-12-27T10:12:00.000-08:00

Your headshot is the first thing that a casting director sees. It represents who you are and what your casting is in this industry. When choosing which image to use as your headshot, keep these things in mind:

a) This photo captures my personality.  b) I look like myself in this image.  c) There is an active energy throughout my face and body.  d) The background is not distracting.  e) My eyes have active thoughts.  f) My wardrobe helps to give the essence of what character’s I can play.  g) I look my correct age.  h) My wardrobe is not distracting.  i) The environment subtly complements me.  j) Both of my eyes are in focus. k) Focus on the eyes. That's a key element.  l) The Headshot show myself.

When is it time to shoot new headshots? Looking at the photo that you use now, answer these questions…

-Are you getting in the door for auditions?
Your headshot is the first impression to a casting director. They need to get a sense of who you are. Your personality should “jump off” of the page…even if you are playing a character in your headshot.

-Do you look like the same person that is in your current shot?
If your photo was taken years ago, it is probably dated…styles and trends change. Your hair might be longer or shorter or even a different color! You may have gained or lost a few pounds. You might have a few more wrinkles. When the casting director is looking at your headshot, they want to know that if you walked into the room at that moment, they would be seeing double.

- Is your headshot high quality?
Your headshot is what gets you in the door. There is a high quality standard that is expected by casting directors and agents. Your headshots should be shot by a professional photographer, who not only has a great eye, but can also capture your personality and energy.

The hardcopies should be printed with a 300 dpi (dots per inch) resolution or higher by a professional photo lab.

PHOTOGRAPHERS TIPS: Backlighting will give a glow to the hairline. You'll need to have a remote speedlight set up or something along those lines. If you're shooting outdoors-get some greenery in the background and open your aperture to get a bokeh effect. If you are using backdrop screens, I guess the color depends upon what clothes are being worn and the skin coloring.

PORTRAITS

2011-12-13T15:03:00.000-08:00

Studio portraits can cost a fortune and they are hardly ever as perfect as you think they should be, especially if you’re a discerning photographer. You would take such photos yourself, but that would mean figuring out flashes, lights, handheld light meters, reflectors, all of the equipment of professional photography that can seem so daunting to even an advanced amateur. Expert Village is here to break down these mysteries of the photo studio and turn you into an accomplished portrait photographer in your very own studio. Not only will he tell you all the equipment you need, but Rob Mitchell shares his techniques for lighting a model to make her look as glamorous as the beauty pageant contestants and supermodels he has shot over his long professional career.

Not sure what type of lighting is best for the photo shoot you have in mind? Our expert discusses the pros and cons of different kinds of lights and how to position them in your studio. He gives detailed advice on fill lighting and back lighting and tells you how to tweak both through the effective use of umbrellas and reflectors. Need a refresher course on flash power packs and setting the white balance on your camera? Expert Village has your answers right here in these videos, along with tips on how to pose your model and how to create the perfect windswept look.

The Headshot Season

2011-12-05T12:26:00.000-08:00

An actor needs at least two headshot photos - one for commercials and one for for film and theater. The commercial image has to be very natural and relatable. When we retouch such images we make sure they have the "everyday look". Such images will get you a part in a commercial but will not help you stand out when considered for a role in a movie. To make your image really pop, we apply cinematic effects to infuse a dose of magnetism in them.

RAW Image

When applying for a role you submit the headshot that is appropriate for the situation, but your contact information should include your web page that gives the full impression of your range. Online casting is still in its infant stages, and casting agents will hardly search the web to find you today. But the web address on your submitted headshot will lead them to your extended virtual resume showing them the full range of your talent through dozens of headshots and still shots from film and theater shows. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words and then you can post your video clips...

Final Image

Setting up your website is easy. There are online services for that as easy to use as an email application. They let you use your own web address like YourName.com. You can post as many photos as you want and they will be well presented to a casting person in a thumbnail and enlarged clickable gallery view. We usually recommend this service to our clients and actor friends because it gives a good presentation of our retouching work and includes the mass emailing application that lets actors invite all the friends and fans to their shows at once. And we do like being invite.

Photography Fundamentals

2011-11-29T10:03:00.000-08:00

You need a strong imagination to create compelling images that arrest the viewer’s attention. However, you can’t bring your ideas to life without a working knowledge of basic photography skills. Study lighting and composition, and explore how various camera settings affect your images. Keep practicing until you master these concepts.

Less is more. Throwing together too many visual elements can overwhelm an audience and obscure your message. A simple image can contain multiple layers of meaning while expressing a clear and coherent theme. Produce uncomplicated photos using solid fundamentals before adding more complexity to your work.

A fashion photographer should stay up to date on the latest clothing trends. When new pieces make their debut, ask yourself how you would photograph them. Consider the technical aspects of potential shots, but also explore your creativity by thinking of unique ways to bring the subject to life.

First Time for Models

2011-11-22T09:06:00.000-08:00

Models who don’t have much experience in front of the camera need special attention when you put them in front of yours. After so many years experience shooting, sometimes I find it difficult now when I get a girl who’s new and inexperienced. So maybe I’m learning here myself, by writing this blog. It can be frustrating at first, when you get a girl who’s unfamiliar with her body and insecure as well. I don’t adhere to the philosophy of talking to them while they’re getting their hair and make up done. For one, this distracts the hair and make up artist. Instead, I watch them carefully. I look for their overall sense of being. How they hold themselves, if they are chatty with the hair stylist or if they’re shy and difficult to break through. I look for their body posture, they’re overall presence. It’s a bit like being a detective. Or even a psychologist.

When I get them in front of my camera in the beginning, I warm them up by being friendly but not overly fake. I want them to know that my praises are genuine and not over the top. I have to remember that new girls to need a lot of praise. For the most part now, when I shoot, the models are experienced. It’s easier for me because I don’t have to do a lot of coaxing or even coaching. They follow my few directions and it’s onward to a fabulous shoot. But new girls don’t know how to emote, for the most part. And they don’t know how to pose. They are unfamiliar with their bodies, making it tough for them to exude confidence. I usually warm up by shooting a few “test” images so I can feel them out and see where their strengths and weaknesses are. I am not a mouthy photographer. I don’t yell out things like, “oh baby, that’s hot!” or “oh wow, give it to me baby”. Some girls need that, I suppose. To me it just feels cheesy. I feel it’s overkill to tell them every time the shutter clicks how amazing they are. But for some new girls, it’s almost required. So I have to relent and shout out a few of those typical lines. I forget I have to, and I’m quickly reminded to do so when they’re not warmed up after the first 100 pictures.

I have to admit that most of the time I have to get on the cyc and show them a few poses. Then I start doing it in front of them when I have my camera up to my eye, making it a hilarious but effective showcase. They follow my lead eventually and we can get on with making a great fashion shoot.

Music helps. Laughter helps. Making things light and simple, not overly tense helps. After all, we have to remember it’s a fashion shoot, not Supreme Court. Girls look better and move better when they’re relaxed and at ease. I’m not a tyrant on my sets so I think this generally helps the nervous girls relax after a few shots.

What makes a good headshot?

2011-11-18T12:11:00.000-08:00

What is a headshot? What is a headshot for?

A headshot is, in most cases, an 8"x10" photo taken of a model or actor. A headshot commonly encompasses a subject's head and shoulders, with the focus being almost completely on the subject's face. However, some "headshots" can often include as much as 3/4 of the subject's body (called a "three quarter" shot).

An 8"x10" headshot is essentially "a business card for actors" which is presented to casting directors who decide whether a person has the right "look" for a particular part for a role in a movie, tv show, or theatrical part. It is not a "glamour shot".

A good headshot is intended to market a person "as they are" (you should look your age, for example), but in as positive light as possible, accentuating the subject's best qualities. A good headshot will often provide the viewer with a glimpse into the person's character, or show their potential for a particular role a casting director is looking to fill.

Some photographer may claim that their headshots will get you work, but this isn't entirely true. A good headshots can help you get your foot in the door and called in for an audition, but it won't get you hired if you can't follow it up with your acting chops.

A headshot is almost 100% of the time the absolute only thing a casting director has to judge you by. And if your headshot isn't good and grab their attention in about 1/2 of a second, you'll get passed over without a second chance or a second thought.

What makes a good headshot?

While there is no magic formula to creating a perfect headshot, and there are exceptions to every "rule", many of the best headshots have the same things in common...

A good headshot will focus on the subject and only include what is necessary in the photo to show a casting director that you have potential for a part. Nothing in the photo (jewelry, clothing, hairstyle, background, props, etc) will distract the viewer from the main point of interest.

A good headshot will be an accurate and realistic representation of the subject. It won't make you look younger. It won't make you look like someone else.

A good headshot will generally "invite" the viewer in and make them want to know more about the subject. This can be done through a combination of lighting, composition, and expression.

A good headshot will avoid overly dramatic (shadowed) lighting. Good headshots are not intended as "fashion shots". A photo can work perfectly as a fashion shot, but fail miserably as a headshot.

When do you need a headshot? When should you update your headshot?

If you're an actor wishing to audition for roles, headshots are an absolutely necessary part of the process.

You should update your headshot any time your look or, in some cases your personal style, significantly changes from that of your headshot. Your headshot is supposed to be an accurate and realistic representation of what you currently look like. If you have shoulder length hair and you suddenly go for a pixie cut, you need to update your headshot.

Model Portfolio

2011-11-14T11:28:00.000-08:00

When a fashion model calls me asking to shoot for her model portfolio what does that involve ? I get this question often and I love to answer my fellow photographer comrades.

ASK QUESTIONS – GAIN INSIGHT – GIVE ANSWERS

The first thing I ask the model is if she is new and has no photos at all or is she a working model and just needs to update her portfolio. If she tells me that she is just starting out, doesn’t have an agency yet and needs to start a portfolio, then I ask her how tall she is, what color hair , measurements etc. That will lead to her emailing me a couple of snapshots of herself so I can get an idea of what type of modeling she should get into. If she is 5′ 6″ – 5′ 7″ then I know she is not going in to high fashion. If she has a beautiful body and great hair and is physically fit then what I would do is:

1. Shoot a beauty shot that emphasizes her beautiful hair and skin.

2. Shoot her in a swimsuit. It can be in studio or on a beach or even the desert.

3. Have her bring a running outfit or a tennis outfit. Maybe she does yoga. A fitness shot is important.

4. Shoot a commercial fashion / Hollister/ Abercrombie type shot. Commercial fashion is big in Los Angeles and actually it’s big everywhere. You can’t go wrong with this look.

5. Lingerie is popular and pays good money for a model. If she doesn’t want to do lingerie then I would change it to something in the look of a catalog “Gap” looking shot. So that is five different shots. I shoot in studio and outdoors at a couple different locations that suit the shot.

This is a nice variety of images that show the model in enough situations for the agent to get an idea of where the agency can place her and which castings to send out on.

Now some might not have a home studio and can only shoot outdoors. That’s ok. I just shoot both because I have a home studio. The more variety you can offer the better. I know what agencies want to see because I have been doing this so long and have seen hundreds and hundreds of model portfolios.

MAKE UP ARTIST

I ALWAYS include a make up/ hair artist and keep the make up simple, not over the top. Remember that the model is a product to the agency and the agency is selling the product. When I hold a casting I wanna see what the model looks like and I don’t want to see photos that the photographer has retouched so much that she looks fake. Do not over do the retouching guys. Save that for your advertising clients and editorials.

PRINT SIZE

The standard print size for a model portfolio is 9″x12″ Some agencies do use smaller books but the majority use 9″ x 12″ prints.

CLOTHING

As far as clothing is concerned I have the girl bring her own clothes. I email her examples of the look we will be going for so she can plan. Always have her bring twice the amount of outfits. So five looks she should bring ten outfits. That way I have choices and I can mix and match if need be.

LIGHTING

You DON’T want to use flat boring lighting, but you also don’t want to light too dramatically either. Remember as you are going through the day that she is going to try to get an agent and the agent wants to see what she looks like.

Now I want to remind you that this photo HAS NOT been retouched yet and the model did have slight acne, but with the combination of a great make up artist and soft beauty lighting, this image will only need slight retouching. I can’t stress enough how important it is to light your work so it doesn’t have to go through hours of retouching. It only creates a bigger budget for the client no matter how small or large the client is.

high fashion photo studio lighting by Carlos Kremmer

To sum up, when you get the call to shoot a model portfolio you want to:

1. Ask questions – gain insight – give answers

2. Shoot five different looks.

3. Shoot in studio (if you can) and shoot on location

4. Include a make up/ hair artist

5. Use clean flattering lighting.

Talk to your model during the whole shoot. Direct the model especially if she is new and never shot before. You need to help her feel confident and sexy. You are the one person she is counting on to make her shots great and that those shots get her an agent !

Now get out there and shoot shoot shoot ! Ask me anything you would like and share with everyone !

Lighting The Catalog Shot

2011-11-13T11:45:00.000-08:00

Photography lighting for catalogs is different than lighting for advertising or an editorial. You rarely get the chance to get creative because the objective is to make the clothes look good and show details in the fabric. Many fashion designers use some very nice fabrics and the designers goal is to sell their clothes to buyers of department stores and get them seen in magazines. Therefore the photographer doesn’t really have the freedom to use radical lighting ratios with dramatic shadows. So what kind of lighting is recommended for shooting catalogs ? Well I like very nice Rembrandt lighting. This is where you see the triangle of light under either the left or right eye. The reason I like to use Rembrandt lighting is because it isn’t flat and it isn’t too dramatic and shows the details of the clothes at the same time.

Fashion Photographer and Fashion Model Expectations

2011-11-10T08:48:00.000-08:00

What do photographers expect from a model and what do models expect from a photographer during a shoot ? I hear many arguments on this subject and after finally getting tired of hearing many photographers and models give their opinion that THEY think is correct I decided to tell you all how it really is in hopes that I can provide a little less friction in this lovely world of the model and fashion photography industry.

Ok so this is how this discussion is broken down.

We have photographers and models who shoot test shoots, paid and non paid but aren’t at the level yet to shoot commercial paid assignments, editorials or advertising.

Then we have photographers who shoot commercial assignments like catalogs, advertising, editorials and look books. These photographers also shoot test shoots and model portfolios. I fall into this category. I have had many girls come to me from all over the country who want to get into modeling and some girls that are already modeling and they just need to update their books. Like I said, I also shoot advertisements, editorials and look books.

Now when I shoot an ad gig or a catalog I am expecting the model to already know what he or she is doing. This is NOT the time for modeling 101. I am not going to tell you how to pose, where to look, what angles you look better shooting. That is the job and responsibility of the model. She is being paid because she knows how to “model” and I am being paid to photograph her. My job as the photographer, is to direct her on what kind of looks I need her to emote. I will help her “give good face.” I will also talk to the model and give encouragement and keep the set “alive.” The model is expecting me to direct her like a director would direct an actress and I am expecting that the model knows how to take direction and turn my direction into the emotion I am asking for. But you know as sure as the sun is gonna rise that the director on a film is not going to start giving acting lessons just as I am not going to give modeling lessons. We are both professionals and expected to give our client what they are asking us to give them. Let me remind you that there is a make up artist for the shoot, a hair stylist and a wardrobe stylist. So all I am expecting from the model is to show up on time and ready to pose and take direction.

The other kind of shoot I do is model portfolio shoots. This is where a girl will pay me good money to start her portfolio for her. I shoot five different looks, in studio and on location. I have a make up artist there the whole time. I tell the model what kinds of outfits to bring and I ask her to practice posing in the mirror so she has some kind of a head start. I DO NOT expect her to know what she is doing at all. She has never modeled before and she is coming to me because I am a professional and I know what modeling agencies are looking for. So I WILL tell her how to pose. I WILL tell her where to look. I WILL help her know what her best angles are and of course I WILL direct her to emote and “give good face.” I also give the model encouragement and constantly talk to her and give her accolades throughout the whole shoot. I will also point out what she is doing wrong and show her how to do it the right way. So in this case one could call this modeling 101. That is fine with me. I get paid good money for this and I like to help and educate.

So in conclusion, professional models and photographers both know their roles and what is expected of them. Amateur models and photographers don’t have enough experience and knowledge to know what to expect from each other. So help each other out and do your homework so that each of you can bring some level of professionalism to the shoot and everyone wins and leaves the shoot with a smile on their face rather than a frown.